Tabanan Bali Indonesia

TABANAN
Regency

The Regency is just west of Badung, stretching from the coastline of massive black rocks up to the central mountains. Tabanan is an unspoilt of Bali which is also richly fertile, containing the best agricultute and a place to give peace and prosperity to their villagers. In the northwest is a dense forest, part of the wild and natural park. Before the dutch took control over Tabanan , the kingdom was ruled by Ngurah Agung Tabanan, who died in 1903, after having ruled the Regency since 1844. He left two wives,brought up in an old tradition that declared that they would commit ” Suttee ” at the cremation seven months later. The two old women , beautifully dressed in white, walked along specially constructed bamboo paths. At the time, the Dutch Resident declared that this was the last ” Suttee” allowed , though the tradition did continue covertly for a while afterwards.

BALI – TABANAN
INCLUDES BEDUGUL, MUNDUK, KRAMBITAN & TANAH LOT

· MT. BATUKARU
This 2,278 meters peak towers over the local landscape, and strongly influence local spiritual beliefs. All local temples have a shire dedicated to the spirit of the “coconut shell ” mountain , and high on its slopes is the public ( Kayangan Jagat )
Temple of pura Luhur Watukaru.

· BEDUGUL
In the center highland of Bali is the serene mountain area of Bedugul. Here , vegetables, fruits, and flowers thrive in the alpine climate , and a colorful litte market at Bukit Mungsu offers a wide selectionof produce including exotic wild orchids, roses, and colorful birds. There is a large botanical garden nearby. At Pancasari, an 18 – hole championship golf course has been developed, with all the facilities to suit golfing lovers. At Lake Beratan, the area’s climate is refreshing after being in the heat of the lowlands. Bratan Lake, approximately 60 kilometers from Denpasar ( to the north ), also provides exciting surrounding, with cool fresh mountain air .

· ALAS KEDATON
Located about 20 km north of Tanah Lot temple. This forest is inhabited by hundreds of monkey that live amicably. There is a temple where one find something unique happens. It is when a ritual ceremony held there, no one is allowed to use any kind of fire offering equipment, such as incense and candle. Tens of big bats dwell on the tips of leaves of big trees attract the visitors who come there.

· TANAH LOT
Carved out of the landscape by tides, wind, and rain , the huge offshore sentinel rock of Tanah Lot supports a small picturesque sea temple which can be reached by a scramble over the wet rocks. These are reputed to be several large caves just below the water line, at the base of the rock , which shelter large sea snakes, who are the guardians of the temple.

· KRAMBITAN
The village of Krambitan, southwest of Tabanan, was once an extension of the ruling Raja’s court and is still a cultural stronghold, with music groups maintaining ancient custom of music and dance, using bamboo instruments.

· JATILUWIH
Approximately 20 kilometers from Tabanan, the road climbs up high into the hills to a small village named Jatiluwih. With a height of 850 meters above sea level, the view here is one of the finest imagineable. Bali’s terraced paddy fields stretch into endless contours over the hills and valleys as far as the eye can see.

The main place to stay in Tabanan is the mountain resort of Bedugul, famed for its cool climate and spectacular lakes, mountains and rice fields. Penebel offers hot springs with modern facilities. Krambitan is the place for an unusual stay in a royal palace. Tabanan’s west coast is being developed as Bali’s newest beach resort-with miles of deserted black sand and a pounding surf. Prices in US dollars. AC = Air conditioning. Telephone codes as noted.

Bali – Bedugul
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A pleasant climate, splendid views, water sports on scenic Lake Bratan, botanical gardens, fresh tropical fruits and vegetables-these are but a few of the things Bedugul offers. Located 1,500 m above sea level, it gets chilly by late afternoon, so bring your sweater. This is a favorite weekend retreat for Jakartans and the local Balinese bourgeoisie.

Getting to know Bedugul

Bedugul’s layout can be somewhat confusing, especially if you arrive in late afternoon after the clouds have descended. Coming from the south, there are two signposts to watch out for: “Bedugul 0.2 km” and “Bedugul.” One might expect to find the village here, but instead the road turns sharply to the left, with a smaller road leading off to the right. The latter leads to the Bedugul Hotel on the southwestern shore of the lake.

The main road continues past a number of hotels on the left until it reaches the village of Bedugul proper. Here you find shops, a few restaurants, a bank, telephone office (wartel, a market selling local produce (including flowers, coffee and vanilla) and a lane leading up to the botanical gardens (Kebun Raya).

Beyond the village the road descends towards the lake, turning left at the Ashram Hotel. The road then continues north to Candi Kuning. On the right hand side is the entrance to the Pura Ulun Danu and other temples. A line of souvenir shops indicates the way. A fee of Rpl,000 is required to enter the temple.

The walk from Bedugul market to the Ashram Hotel takes about 10 minutes. The temples on the shore are another 10 minutes further on. From the market to the entrance of the botanical gardens takes about 15 minutes on foot.

How to get to Bedugul

Bedugul is situated on the main road connecting north and south Bali. It is the perfect place to stop for a night on an island tour. Rent a car and explore the area at you own pace.

If you are going by public transport, catch a bemo from Ubung terminal in Denpasar to Bedugul for Rp3,000. The fare is the same from Singaraja. The nicest way to get around Bedugul is on foot in the invigorating mountain air. Or charter a bemo, carrying up to seven persons, for about $10-$20 a day.

The High Read to Bedugul

Most people traveling between the highland resorts of Kintamani and Bedugul travel the circuitous route via Singaraja and the north coast to get from one to another. An alternative route, used by very few people, leads south through the mountains, offering spectacular scenery and a close look at the vanilla and coffee producing area of the island.

The road is good enough for cars or motorbikes, although there are several places where deep potholes make driving fast a big risk. It’s best is to allow half a day for the route between Kintamani and Luwus, where you meet the main road between Denpasar and Bedugul. This way you can stop along the way, have a coffee in one of the villages and enjoy a leisurely ride.

From Kintamani, follow the main road north until just beyond Penulisan and the Tegeh Koripan temple. Take the small road that branches off to the left towards Belantih village. Continue west past Belantih to Lampu and the neighboring village of Catur, where the road bends south. Lawak village marks the beginning of the vanilla-growing region where the harvest can often be seen drying in shelters.

After Belok (keep right) head for Pelaga. Just before the village there’s a sharp right turn which leads to a shortcut west to Lake Bratan. Not many Balinese expose their vehicles to this road though, as chances of ruining them or at least getting stuck are pretty high. Another reason to avoid the shortcut and continue south is that the best has yet to come.

Beyond Pelaga and Kiadan, the elevated area around Nungkung and Sandakan is extremely beautiful. A bit further ahead lies the Islamic village of Angan Tiga with it’s small mosque. The next village, Kerta, has a police post and even a bank. Past the bank take the right turn to Bedugul (the road continues straight to Denpasar which is only 32 km away). The stretch of road between Kerta and Luwus via Peria is extremely bad. In Luwus you reach the main road. Turn right for Bedugul or left for Mengwi and Denpasar.

Eating in Bedugul

There are only a few restaurants in Bedugul but they do cover a wide price range. Opposite the road leading up to the botanical gardens, on a right hand bend, there are three small eating places serving cheap meals from 6 am to 7 pm. A good meal costs around $1. Try the ferns (sayur pakul at Ananda I. Friendly service.

There are good restaurants in the main hotels: The Bedugul Hotel’s restaurant by the lake serves meals costing around $7. Try the Chinese food at Pacung, especially their crab fried rice (nasi goreng kepiting). The Bali Handara’s Kamandalu Restaurant is more up market. Strawberry Hill serves tasty Indonesian favorites, soups, fresh salads, steaks, and fish. On chilly days and evenings savor a drink at Bedugul’s only bar beside a log fire. Managed by the owners of Poppies in Kuta.

Indonesian food is available in front of Ulun Danu temple in small food stalls-not recommended for those with sensitive stomachs. Overlooking the temple and a big banyan tree is the Perama Tea House, a small restaurant by the lake. The open-air patio is a pleasant spot for a refreshing cup of tea. Try their pisang bakar Candikuning grilled banana with grated cheese on top.

Ayam Bakar Taliwang Bersaudara is just before the famous Ulun Danu temple and has a view over the temple and the lake. A favorite with locals. The spicy hot dishes from Lombok are just right for the cold weather. Order the sate or tofu if you don’t like food too spicy. $4. Jember Indah is on the higher slopes just outside Bedugul. Cheap east Javanese food and beautiful views down to the sea. Try the soto Madura for $4. Minang Saiyo, in front of Candi Kuning market, sells spicy Sumatran Padang fare.

gain-don’t feel reluctant to offer half the asking price. Also available are fresh flowers, including wild orchids and a number of other ornamental plants.

Some small shops selling souvenir crafts are found around Pura Ulun Danu and the lake. Shops in the Bedugul Hotel compound sell film.

Bedugul Activities – watersports

A range of water sports are available next to the Ulun Danu temple and at the lakeside hotels such as Bedugul and Lila Graha. The usual rates, including insurance, are as follows:

Motorboat $20 for 30 mins.
Covered Boat $20 for 30 mins.
Water cycle $20 for 15 mins.
Rowboat $15 for 30 mins.

Bali – Munduk
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The village of Munduk, actually in the Buleleng administrative regency, is located on a ridge along the mountain road leading from Wanagiri, just north of Pancasari to Mayong, some 25 km south of Singaraja as the crow flies. Overlooking coffee and clove plantations, the area comprises the pristine Lake Tamblingan with its traditional fishing community, as well as nearby forests, waterfalls and some of the most beautiful views on the island.

Munduk is a perfect base for treks into the mountainous Balinese hinterland. You can walk to Mt. Lesong (1,860 m), around Lake Tamblingan or visit the area’s five waterfalls.Munduk is the center for an innovative community tourism development project. The village, which has strong links with the Hotel and Tourism Training Institute in Nusa Dua, has set up a number of activites for visitors, centered around Puri Lumbung Cottages (see below).

Munduk Village

Go from Bedugul to the Pancasari bemo termnal for Rp1000, then take a bemo to Munduk for Rp. l,500. Alternatively hop on the bemo at the Pempatan crossing.If you hire a car or motorbike, drive cautiously on the road down to Munduk-it’s steep and treacherous.

Please click here for Tabanan – Jatiluwih Accommodation

The hot springs of Penebel and the rice terraces of Jatiluwih make the slopes of the Mount Batukau (2,276 m) well worth visiting.These areas are most easily reached by bemo from Tabanan or Mengwi in the south via Pacung. The village of Blayu, just north of Mengwi, is worth a stop-off for those interested in handicrafts. It is famous throughout Bali for weaving and woodcarving.Soka Restaurant in Jatiluwih serves good Indonesian and Chinese food for $10.

Tanah Lot Bali
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Shortly before Tabanan on the main highway from Denpasar a signboard directs you southwest to Tanah Lot. Alternative access if north of Legian, turning west toward Canggu, following the signs to Tanah Lot. There are a number of shops and restaurants nearby. Tourists congregate at this Balinese landmark by the busloads at sunset.

Eating in Tanah Lot

Recommended are Dewi Sinta Restaurant at the hotel of the same name and Bali Lestari Restaurant. Several upscale dining outlets are at Le Meriden Resort and Nirwana Golf Club.

Shopping Numerous outlets surround the entrance to the temple in organized market fashion. Aside from the usual Balinese souvenirs, clothing and novelties, there are the Polo Ralph Lauren outlet and a BDFS (Bali Duty Free Shop) offering counterfeit branded goods. There are film outlets and money changers. Mertha Ayu, further inland, has dry goods. Golf Nirwana Bali Golf Club is an 18-hole, par 71, Greg Norman designed course, opened in 1997. The course winds among active rice fields, a dozen family temples, the resort hotel and residential villas, with views of Tanah Lot from several holes. Two holes shoot from cliff top to cliff top across the Indian Ocean. The membership course is open to resort guests. Visitors may play at management’s discretion.

Dances Kecak dances are held near the temple gate on an irregular basis. Call Dewi Sinta Hotel to confirm 6.30 performance.

Bali – Krambitan

Located to the southwest of Tabanan, Krambitan is a small town which was once the center of a small principality. Its court culture is retained in the area’s particular styles of dance and painting. A branch of the current Tabanan royal family owns the two palaces here.The main attraction here, besides the quiet, everyday village life, is to order your own dinner and calonarang trance play performance in one of the palaces, which also offers rooms for rent. The whole village participates in these shows,” and members of the royal family welcome you as their guests.

Krambitan

To get there, continue west from Tabanan until you see an intersection and a road to the left with a sign indicating “Krambitan 5 km.”

Karangasem Bali Indonesia

BALI – KARANGASEM
INCLUDES CANDIDASA, BALINA BEACH, PADANGBAI & AMBLAPURA

Covering Amed, Candidasa,Teganan,Tirta Gangga,Tulamben

KARANGASEM
Regency

The Regency of Karangasem has an impressive range of terrain and covers about 2,000 square kilometers. The steep rise from the coast up to the mountains creates magical scenary. Dominiting the regency is the Volcano Agung , said to be the “Home ” of the Balinese gods.In 1963 , the Volcano last eruption killed more than a thousand people and many people lost their land and become homeless. However , it also has given special value where hundreds of lorries and trucks thunder every day to transport sand stone for building materials.

· BESAKIH TEMPLE
Bali’s “mother temple” the largest temple in Bali, is over 900 meters up to he slopes of Gunung Agung. It has been regarded as holy place since pre historic times in Bali. The first recorded mention of its existence is from an inscription from the fifteenth century; it has been regarded as a central, holy temple for the entire island .All the allegiances of the Balinese people come together at Besakih.
Each Regency has its own temple wirhin the overall compound, as do each of the caste groups.

· TENGANAN
Protected for centuries from the outside world by its surrounding walls, the village of Tenganan has maintained its ancient pre- Hindu customs through a strong code of non – fraternization with outsiders. Tenganan is famous for its ‘double ikat ‘ woven material called gringsing, which is supposed to protect the wearer with magic powers.

· AMED & TULAMBEN
Approximately 1.5 hour from Badung north of Padang Bai.There is most popular diving site or snorkeling in Bali. A shipwreck and a drop-off accecsibble from the beach offer easy access to colourful under water world. The magnificent coral viewing, also notorious for shark, rays and wide variety of beautiful fish life. Diving courses are also available.

· TIRTA GANGGA
Just north of Karangasem , on the slopes leading up to Mount Agung, is Tirta Gangga, a veritable water playground designed by 6 princes in the Royal Family of Karangasem as a resting place. The exotic pools and water fountains sustained some damage during the eruptions of Mt Agung, but the water gardens remain as serene and temping as ever, to the waery traveler.

Karangasem, Bali’s easternmost regency, is also its most beautiful. It has a wide variety of resorts, some of them little-known. Padangbai, where the ferries depart to Lombok; Candidasa on the southern coast; Tulamben and Amed, the divers’ hide-outs on the north coast; Tirtagangga, near the cultural heart of the eastern coastal plain, and the more remote areas of Sidemen and Putung. Karangasem is a great area to base yourself for several days of exploration.
Prices in US dollars. AC = Air conditioning. Telephone code is 0363.

Bali – Candidasa

Candidasa is a good place to escape the bustle of Kuta. Accommodations are good and relatively cheap, as is the food. There are no beach vendors and aggressive hawkers are rare. Although the town has tripled in size in recent years, the surrounding area is still serene and very quiet. Everything is oriented along the main street that parallels the beach.

Bali Tourist Information

Perama Information Center in the west part of town is helpful. No Problem International Air Ticketing can book tickets on Garuda and many international airlines. They also arrange bus travel to Java and eastern Indonesia.

To Karangasem

Public bemos run between Batubulan station and Candidasa until dark for Rp3,500 (this is the local price: you may end up paying more). Public bemos operate between Candidasa and either Klungkung or Amlapura charging around Rp3,000.

If you come from Kuta and want to avoid crossing Denpasar, take the direct shuttle bus which departs from Kuta at 9.30 am. Buy tickets at CV Ganda Sari Transport, JI. Legian, Phone 754383. From Ubud (next to Nomad Restaurant), take a similar shuttle at 8.15 am or 4 pm, Rp6,000. These buses also run the return journey.

The best way to explore the area’s back roads is by car, motorbike or bicycle, all of which can be rented at several outlets in Candidasa at rates similar to those in Ubud (see Ubud practicalities). Motorbikes with drivers park on the main road at the Tenganan road junction and at the Culik junction to offer lifts to Tenganan and Amed, respectively. The usual fare is Rp1000 one way: bargain.

Eating in Candidasa
check Out our list of Bali Restaurants
Candidasa sprouts new restaurants almost daily, so there are always new places to try out. Menus are similar, so we recommend only those that stand out in some way. The typical menu includes salads, Indonesian and Chinese dishes, seafood, sandwiches, and deserts. Some add steak, curry, pasta and cakes. Prices are good, averaging $4-$5/person with drinks. Seafood can be a lot more expensive. Most places close by 10 pm.

Arie Bar and Restaurant Down-to-earth, family-run establishment with a good selection of Balinese, Chinese and Western dishes. Good quality and prices that are hard to beat.

Di Mahkota, This international restaurant has a very Dutch flavor to it, serving smoked fish (salmon, herring and even eel), meatballs, croquettes, imported cold cuts and cheeses as well as more common international and Indonesian fare. Has the luxury of AC and open-air settings.

Kedai . Right on the main road as you enter Candi Dasa from the south, this very stylish Asian fusion restaurant is the perfect spot for lunch and dinner. A mouth-watering menu features crab cakes, various curries and fresh seafood.

Kubu Bali, Serves a bit of everything but excels in seafood: grilled, steamed or fried. Their open kitchen is fun to watch. Finish up with a peach melba, chilled fruit or a cognac.

Lotus Sea View (free transportation in surrounding area). Next to Toke cafe. Larger and more formal. Enjoy the sunsets and great seafood. Its location near the water gives it a Venetian flavor.

Pandan Restaurant By the beach. Well known for its Balinese buffet of babi guling (roast pork), chicken, fish, vegetable, noodles and salads. Experience this feast or sample one of the many other delicious local or Chinese dishes.

Puri Bagus Beach Hotel A good restaurant on the second story overlooking the sea. Great seafood.

Rama Bungalows and Restaurant Has added Swiss dishes such as Roschti, Kartoffel and Puffer Mitgemuse to an already good menu.

TJ’s Cafe. Has the best grilled fish, stuffed baked potatoes and salads around. Elegant open pavilions overlook a carp pond.

Toke Cafe Near the bend in the road. Opens to the beach on one side and to the main road on the other. Offers the best combination of Balinese ambience and Western intimacy. Great welcoming drink and good pasta for a couple of dollars.

Warung Ibu Rusmini has the best nasi campur (mixed vegetables, tempe and chicken with rice) in town for under $1, plus other simple local dishes.

Shopping in Candidasa

Candidasa is not particularly a place for shopping, but a limited selection of textile bags, sarongs, locally designed clothing, and jewelry, as well as other gear is available. The following places are of some interest:

Ratu Oka is a lontar palm-leaf artist who works in his small shop next to the SO Artha Home stay. Traditional lontar books are available here for $20.

Bali Ceramics, east of town, has a variety of quality glazed stoneware. Simple bowls, vases, cups, and plates in interesting designs. They also sell shuttle bus tickets to Ubud and Kuta.

It’s also worth checking out some of the shops in Terganan. They offer typical Tenganan ikat textiles and other traditional textiles. Some are genuine antiques. Most shops also have pandanus baskets in different designs and stories from the Ramayana carved into lontar leaves.

Candidasa Night Life

Candidasa has entered a new age with the recent advent of discos and nightclubs which seem rather out of place in this once quiet seaside village. Raja Restaurant shows movies nightly. Go-go’s is a favorite with the younger crowd and has great dance music. But to dance all night long, the only place to go is Beer Garden Disco.

There are also traditional music performances and dance at several places. Candidasa Beach Bungalows II holds barong and keris dances in the restaurant upon request for groups, $15 including dinner. Pandan Harum stages legong, bans, and barong dances with gamelan orchestra on Tuesday and Friday at 9 pm. Closed during low season. $2.75/person.

Candidasa Activities

Diving
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Karangasem has several dive spots not to be missed, namely Gili Tepekong, Tulamben (with its ship wreck swarming with marine life), Amed (great 40 meter drop-oft), and the reefs of Tianyar. Scuba diving equipment is available for rent at several diving centers along the main street of Candidasa. Their prices change according to the location. For those near Candidasa and Padangbai, expect to pay $55 for one dive and $65 for two. Contact Calypso Bali Dive, Stingray, or Baruna through its Denpasar office

Snorkeling
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Snorkeling can be arranged almost anywhere. Prices for 1.5 hours of snorkeling (including the roundtrip) at the islands just off Candidasa are around $3/person in a party of up to 3 people. If you are going out alone, expect to pay $4. This includes the price of the fins and mask equipment. Watch out! The waves can be rough near the islands. One can also go to the Pasir Putih area east of town and land on the beautiful beach for a swim.
Sailing prices are approximately $6 for 2 hours or $8 if you want to fish.

Cycling
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Many places rent bikes. Kubu Bali has five and ten-speed mountain bikes. The Water Garden has mountain bikes and maps at similar rates. Count on paying Rp20,000 per day.

Hiking
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A fine three-hour, 6 km, walk from Candidasa to Tenganan starts just east of Kubu Bali or at Sri Jati Restaurant. Follow the ridge-top trail and drop left into Tenganan just before the fourth major hill. Magnificent views, but start early to avoid the midday heat.

A shorter hike starts at the tip of the headland east of town: walk the hill due northeast down to a long, deserted black sand beach. Other hikes can be organized from Tenganan to Putung or to Bedabudug (Bandem).

Other info

Candidasa is a small town with few services apart from the hotels and restaurants.

Books Shop near The Water Garden has a good selection.

Doctors. There are two doctors in town. Hours are limited. Inquire about the cost before accepting treatment. Look for the sign opposite Pondok Bambu Seaside Cottages and Restaurant and opposite the Bayu Peneda Beach Inn. Ask at the big hotels for more information.

Money Changers. Scattered along the main road are numerous money changers.

Necessities. Asri Shop, mid-town, is the official post office and the closest thing to a convenience
store in town, selling medicine, foodstuffs, cassettes, and simple clothing, as well as stamps. Photography. A basic selection of film, 10% above Kuta prices, is available at several places. One-hour film processing is also available.

Telephone Service. The Kubu Bali Restaurant has a wartel for telephone service.

Bali – Padangbai

Upon arrival at the small beach resort of Padangbai, don’t be put off by the busy pier. Padangbai hides great coves and dive spots behind its hills. Quiet Biastugel lies behind a small hill to the west, while Padang Kurungan, or Blue Lagoon, lies to the north, nearer to the accommodations. Rows of colorful outriggers are lined up on the sandy beach, east of the pier. There is a tourist information office at the harbor. Made’s Cafe provides diving services at $50 a dive. Only simple accommodations and restaurants are available here.

to Padang Bai

Padangbai is a main departure point for Lombok and other islands. A ferry leaves the harbor for Lombok every two hours from 9 am. For information on ferries to Lombok, call the harbor office, Phone 41840.

There are private boats to Nusa Penida (landing in Buyuk) for Rp4,500 per person. These only go to Nusa Penida and leave early in the morning. Depending on the boat size, they can carry either 20 or 40 people for the one-half hour journey. Find the boats on the beach just east of the big ferry terminal. They leave between 7 am2 pm; same schedule coming home from Nusa Penida. A charter will cost about $7 if you bargain well. To sail directly to Nusa Lembongan you should leave from Sanur.

There are direct buses from Padangbai to Jakarta for Rp400,000. Public bemos to Padangbai from Denpasar (via Batubulan and Klungkung) charge Rp5,000 to those who bargain well.

Eating Out in Padang Bai

A few small restaurants are scattered around Padangbai. Topi Inn’s attractive sandy floor restaurant serves a wide range of food and is famous for its fried fish prepared by the owner herself. Pantai Ayu Restaurant, right on the beach, is always full. Chinese and seafood dishes. The pleasant English-speaking manager lbu Komang presents you with small gifts a krupuk udang to welcome you and a cute out rigger souvenir to take home. She has also a few rooms for rent: $2.50-$10.

Bali – Tirtagangga

Tirtagangga is still a small hamlet, quiet by day and even quieter by night-nice place for a few days of hiking and reading with periodic dips in the spring-fed pools. The few places to stay are all quite basic. Reach Tirtagangga from Candidasa by bemo via Amlapura for Rp2,000.

Eating in Tirtagangga

Kusuma Jaya and Warung Rijasa serve Indonesian dishes such as mie goreng (fried noodles) or nasi goreng (fried rice) for $1. Warung Tirtawati has a selection of delicious Indonesian food; their mie goreng is a delight, and a bargain at under $1.50. Both Good Karma and Tirta Ayu Homestay serve a wider selection of Indonesian and Chinese meals.
Several warung and restaurants are in a little shopping arcade in front of the water palace. Gangga Café serves pizza, Indian, vegetarian, and homemade yogurt. Puri Sawah’s menu includes all kinds of baguette sandwiches, many salads, baked potatoes with various fillings, and baked goods.

Tirtagangga Activities

Swimming

Most people visit Tirtagangga to swim in the pools, which are quiet and cool. Also look for the fresh spring by the bridge.

Treks

There are many walks through the rice fields. Ask around or just keep to the wider, well-worn paths. A wonderful cascade of rice terraces and steep hills drop down into Culik just north of Tirtagangga. Trekking guides are available in Tirtagangga. For $30 they will take you to the top of Mt. Agung; $15 to Mt. Lempuyang.

Cycling

This is probably the best area in Bali for biking. There are some steep hills but there are lots of great back roads. Rent a bike elsewhere and either ride it out or bring it on the bemo.

Bali – Sidemen

One of the most beautiful areas in all of Bali is the Sidemen valley. Take the road over the bridge east of the city Semarapura, going north through exquisitely beautiful scenery of sharp green hills and rice field terraces interspersed with kubu (thatched huts for keeping tools, animals, or for taking a shaded rest). Sidemen and Iseh are famous for their views from the jagged hills, plunging down to steep rice terraces in the near distance and soaring up again to Mt. Agung rising above it all. Sidemen is famous for its kain ndek ikat cloth, as well as gold-threaded songket weaving. One can go to any of four atelier in the Sidemen area and watch the workers weaving.

Bemos cost Rp5,000 from Semarapura, a rather steep price since it’s a comparatively seldom-used route. Home stays and hotels are all owned by members of the local royalty, the family of Cokorda Dangin. If all rooms are full, they can refer you to another. Prices can be inclusive of up to 3 meals a day, cooked at your home stay, since there are no restaurants catering to non–Balinese tastes in the area. There are no fans needed in the cool mountain air.

Bali – Amlapura

Amlapura is not a place where many tourists stay, but you can. Bemos run frequently between town and the surrounding areas, as it is a business and market center. Bemos to Ujung leave from the terminal east of town. The fare to Denpasar is Rp15,500 and to Singaraja Rp15,000.

Eating Out in Amlapura

Restaurant Lenny Associated with the Pandan Restaurant in Candidasa, has a wide selection of quality Indonesian and Chinese food.

Warung Manggis Behind the bemo center. Excellent Indonesian food. Under $2 a meal.

Bali – Amed

Amed is on the easternmost tip of Bali where some of the island’s most idyllic beaches are located.

How to get to Amed

Bemo prices to Amed from Culik are Rp10000 or Rp10,500 further out. An ojek ride costs Rp2,000.

Bali – Tulamben

The Village of Tulamben can seem uninviting: the beach is rough black sand and in the dry season the countryside is uniformly brown. But Tulamben’s attractions lie beneath the water. The wreck of a World War 11 Liberty class ship, a magnet for divers, lies 30 m from the beach. Experts say 400 species of reef fishes live on the wreck, visited by 100 species of open-ocean pelagics. It’s not hard to see why this is probably Indonesia’s most popular dive spot. Reach Tulamben by bemo from Candidasa via Amblapura for Rp2,000. Taxi is Rp25,000 each way.

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